Method of making stitch-down shoes.



W. S. SHAFT.

METHOD OF MAKING STITCH-DOWN SHOES.

APPLICATION FILED APR.2I,1914.

LWQWGD Patented Feb. 8,1916.

- the latter, exteriorly,

WILLIS S. SHAFT, 0F FARIBAULT, MINNESOTA.

METHOD OF MAKING STITCH-DQWN SHOES.

Specification of. Letters Patent.

Patented Feb. 8, 1916.

Application filed 'April 21, 1914. Serial No. 833,507.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, WILLIS S. SHAFT, a citizen of the United States, residing at Faribault and State of Minnesota, have invented certain newv and useful Improvements in Methods of Making Stitch-Down Shoes, of which the following is a specification..

My present invention relates to the manufacture of shoes technically known as stitchdown or welt shoes, whereby the uppers are secured to the soles by stitching the former, adjacent the lower marginal edgethereof, to

with the aid of a suitable welt servlng as a reinforcement and giving finish to the product.

The principal objects of my present in vention are to provide for the manufacture the proper manner;

of stitch-down shoes by a method whereby the cost of such is reduced to a minimum; the durability insured by the building or securing of one section relative to another in and, the squeaking, when in use, is obviated.

Other objects of the invention will appear in the following detailed description taken in connection with the accompanying drawings forming a part of this specification and in which drawings Figure 1 is a fragmentary perspective view of a sole.. Fig. 2 is a transverse sectional view through a last showing elements of a shoe in operative relation thereto for constructing theshoe. Fig. 3 is a view similar to Fig. 2 showing further elements in place. Figs. 4 and 5 are views similar to Figs. 2 and 3 showing further steps in the manufacture of stitch-down shoes. Fig. 6 is a perspective view of a partly finished shoe, a portion of the upper being turned away to disclose details of construction.

In the drawings, where similar characters refer to similar parts A designates a suitable last and B the sole which may be held in P operative relation to the last in any suitable manner.

'Since one of the principal objects of the invention is to provide a stitch-down shoe which will not squeak when in use, that portion ofthe sole which engages the tread of the foot is formed integralwith the outer sole or a section of the outer sole instead of providing an inner sole separable from the outer sole but cemented thereto. The first step therefore in the provision of a sole is 10 from the marginal edge to channel the same at its marginal portion to provlde a lower flap 7 and an upper flap 8, the latter flap lying within the lateral margin of the sole. This provides a channel 9 beneath the upper flap 8, it being understood that the flap 8 is a portion of the sole which contacts with the tread of the foot.

In practice the sole B is preferably mounted upon last A with the flap 8 next adjacent thereto and to facilitate opening of channel 9 to permit of ready access thereto, the lower flap 7 may be slit inwardly as at thereof. This divides the lower flap into segments which may be turned upwardly and so secured in any suitable manner, such as by hooks or tacks 11.

The character C designates the lining of the shoe which is next positioned in place, having its lower marginal edge turned upon itself and placed within the channel 9. The

lining may be secured in place in any suitable manner, such as by drawing a cord D about the lining and more specifically in the channel thus formed; by interposing an adhesive between the lining and the walls of the channel 9, or both methods may be used in securing the lining in place. If desired, thecord D could be removed after the adhesive E has set. It is to be understood that when the shoe is in use, the weight of the foot upon the upper flap 8 tends to hold the lining in place. After the lining has been secured in place the segments of the lower flap 7 are permitted to move to a normal position, as clearly shown in Fig. 3 of the drawing.

The upper of the shoes is designated by character F and has that portion adjacent its lower marginal edge turned outwardly as at 12 and may be secured to the sole B as by stitching or other fastening 13, holding portion 12 and flap 7 closely in engagement. rior to securing the upper F to the sole the toe cap K may be placed about the lining C in its proper position and simultaneously secured to the sole with the upper or by turning the lower margin of cap K under instead of out, it may he slid underflap 8 and rigidly held in place by flap 8, the upper F and the welt H. i

While in some cases it may be possible to cut the sole of the shoe wholly of one piece of leather it may be desirable at times to build up the sole of several sections, and

with this end in view, in Fig. 5 of the drawing I have shown sections G which are to be disposed under sole section B when the shoe is in use. If desired, the upper F may be secured directly to sole B by the use of a welt H, fastening or stitching 14 passing through the welt, the out-turned portion 12 of the upper, through sole B and then, if other sections are used, such as sections G the stitching may pass therethrough.-

From the foregoing it is made manifest tion to provide an upper and a lower flap;

then separating said flaps to open up said channel; then securing that portion of the lining, adjacent its lower marginal edge, within the said channel; then placing a toe cap about said lining; then turning that portion of the upper, adjacent its lower marginal edge, outwardly; and, I then securing said outturned portion of said upper and said toe capto said sole.

2. That improvement in the manufacture of stitch-down shoes which comprises first channeling the sole at its marginal portion to provide an upper and a lower flap; then slitting said lower flap from its marginal edge inwardly to form segments; then turning and securing-said segments of said lower flap to open up said channel; then securing that portion of the lining, adjacent its lower marginal edge, within the said channel and releasing said segments; then turning that portion of the upper, adjacent its lower marginal edge, outwardly; and then securing said outturned portion of said upper to said sole. o

3. That improvement in the manufacture of stitch-down shoes which comprises first channeling the sole at its marginal portion to provide an upper and a lower flap; then slitting said lower flap from its marginal 55 edge inwardly to form segments; then turning and securing the said segments of said lower flap to open up said channel; then securing that portion of the lining, adjacent its lower marginal edge, within the said channel and releasing said segments; then placing a toe cap "about the lining; then turning that portion of the upper, adjacent its lower marginal edge, outwardly; and, then securing said outturned portion of said upper and said toe cap to said sole.

4. That improvement in the manufacture of stitch-down shoeswhich comprises first channeling the sole at its marginal portion to provide an upper and a lower flap; then slitting said lower flap from its marginal edge inwardly to form segments; then placing said sole upon a last with the said upper flap next adjacent thereto; then bending the segments of said lower flap upwardly and securing the same to open up said channel; then securing that portion of the lining, adjacent its lower marginal edge, within the said channel; then turning that portion of the upper, adjacent its lower marginal edge, outwardly; and, then securing said outturned portion of said upper to the said sole.

5. That improvement in the manufacture of stitch-down shoes which comprises first channeling the sole at its marginal portion to provide an upper and a lower flap; then separating said flaps to open up said channel; then placing the lining with its portion adjacent its lower marginal edge turned upon itself, within said channel; then drawing and securing a cord about the channel formed by said turning of the lining upon itself; then turning that portion of the upseparating said flaps to openup said chan-' nel; then placing the lining with its portion adjacent its lower marginal edge turned upon itself, within said channel with adhesive interposed between the lining and the walls of the channel; then drawing and securing a cord about the channel formed by said turning of said lining upon itself; then turning that portion of the upper, adjacent its lower marginal edge, outwardly; and, then securing said outturned portion of said upper to said sole.

7. That improvement in the manufacture of stitch-down shoes which comprises first channeling the sole atits marginal portion to provide an upper and a lower flap; then separating said flaps to open up said channel; then placing the lining with its portion adjacent its lower marginal edge turned upon itself within said channel, with adhesive interposed between the lining and the walls of the channel; then turning that porto provide an upper and a lower flap; then separating sa id flaps to open up said chanlot ' tion of the upper, adjacent its lower margithe upper, adjacent its lower marginal edge, 10 outwardly; and, then securing said outturned portion of said upper to said sole.

In testimony whereof I hereby affix my signature in presence of two witnesses.

WILLIS S. SHAFT. Witnesses:

BEULAH M. LA ScoLA, RICHARD B. OWEN. 

